The Comeback Kid: Colombia

09.18.15

For many people, the country of Colombia is synonymous with Pablo Escobar, violence and drug trafficking. While Pablo and the Medellín Cartel are certainly fascinating, Colombia is no longer defined by this era. Today, it is a shining example of carefully considered progress and strong cultural roots. As one of the world’s “megadiverse” countries, it hosts close to 10% of the planet’s biodiversity within its borders. It is currently ranked as one of the safest places to visit in South America, yet remains free of many of the downsides of rampant tourism. I decided to take my mom on a trip there in July 2015, and Colombia did

not disappoint.

Looking down on Medellín from the tram headed toward Parque Arví.

Medellín (say it “Medeh-jheen“, or in some dialects “Medeh-yeen“) is a sprawling city that runs along the bottom of the Aburrá Valley. It is the second largest city in Colombia and is home to some 2.4 million people. Displaced migrants fleeing violence in other parts of the country have built homes on the steep hillsides rising from the valley floor, creating an amazing patchwork of surprisingly vertical communities. Commonly referred to as slums, these communities are poor and have traditionally had little access to the services offered in Medellín city proper at the bottom of the valley. Recently, Medellín decided to start solving this problem by installing three gondola lifts called the Metrocable. These gondolas are directly connected to the very efficient Metro system and provide access up the slopes of the valley. We rode Line K, which took us up to the Biblioteca España (a beautiful library built for the residents at the top of the hillside), then transferred to Link L which takes passengers to Parque Arví, a massive nature reserve along the plateau on top. The trip was cheap (roughly $2.26 round trip) and took about 25 minutes each way.

Fresh fruit cup in the park. My advice: skip the frosting.

Parque Arví contains walking trails, horses for hire, craft stalls and food vendors. It is a remarkably laid-back place, as was typical with our experience everywhere Colombia. No one is pushy, no one will hassle you to buy things, everyone is genuinely friendly and mainly just out enjoying life. Colombia has a wealth of fresh fruit…we picked up a fruit cup with Uchuvas (Peruvian Groundcherry), Currants, Chermioya, Lulo, Pitahaya, Zapote and Blackberries. It was so good I wished I hadn’t agreed to the frosting-type stuff they dribbled over the top. English is not widely spoken in Colombia and our Spanish was basic at best, but our first day proved that neither mattered very much. Colombians are a patient bunch and wherever we needed help (and sometimes even when we didn’t) we found it offered up with sincerity.

Roadside stand, viewed from the bus between Medellín and Pereira (then transfer to Salento).

Colombia’s bus system is the main source of transportation in a country that is 1.5 times bigger than Texas, and they don’t mess around. Terminals are confusing to the non-Spanish speaker but are clean and organized. Schedules run on time and you can catch a ride on anything from a basic chiva to a luxury vehicle with WiFi, movies and AC. My mom and I took a 6 hour bus ride on the popular Flota Occidental line to the small town of Salento, located in the Eje Cafetero (Coffee Triangle) at the edge of the Colombian Andes. The winding roads leading out of Medellín and the Aburrá Valley were a little rough on the stomach, but the view out the window made it worthwhile.

The back end of a really brave horse as we pass on a blind curve heading up the valley outside Medellín.

Chivas are used primarily for local transport in the mountainous Andes regions of Colombia and are always cheerfully decorated.

Salento is not easy to get to, which is perhaps a good thing. Even the sure-bet bus connection requires an early rise, transfers and a long route. Brave souls can be dropped off at an intersection in the middle of nowhere where a local bus just might pass by. My mom and I chose the early option and made the transfer at town called Pereira. We tried to get off about 2 stops early because a building outside the window looked a bit like a bus station, but thankfully the driver pegged us as tourists, wouldn’t let us off, and delivered us safely to the actual station. (Thanks again to the Colombian spirit). We lucked out and the transfer timing was perfect for us to hop straight into the tinyvan to Salento. The van was already full and then we stopped 5 times to pick up locals. I was in the front seat and my lap was filled with a middle-schooler, three Spanish tourists, a sack of corn or sugar or some other food product and two smiling young ladies who worked at the toll booth outside of town. My mom was in the back happily chattering away with a gracious Colombian couple who were returning for the first time since fleeing the turmoil many years before. If there’s one thing about Colombians, the pride they have for their country is contagious. And they deserve to be proud, as it’s a genuinely lovely place these days.

Just off the main square in Salento, Colombia.

This guy ran his herd through downtown Salento every day we were there.

Salento is a quiet, misty, coffee-infused village in the Eje Cafetero (Coffee Triangle) at the edge of the Colombian Andes. At about 6000 feet it is just a bit higher in altitude than Denver. It’s primary attraction, aside from organic coffee farms and friendly people, is that it serves as a gateway to the Valle de Cocora and Parque Nacional Natural Los Nevados. The Valle de Cocora is famous for the incredibly tall Quindío Wax Palm, and many visitors do not venture past the valley, which is stunning in its own right. However, that was not our plan. We were determined to go trekking in the Colombian Andes.

The Valle de Cocora.

The wax palm is the tallest palm in the world and is also the Colombian national tree. Parque Nacional Natural Los Nevados is a national park located in the Cordillera Central of the Colombian Andes. It is the home to 8 volcanoes, the highest of which is the 17,400 ft high Nevado del Ruiz. It also hosts a variety of different ecosystems, from the cloud forest up through the páramo. The páramo is a narrow region above the continuous forest line but below the permanent snowline. It is studded with fuzzy, yellowish-green plants called frailejónes.

My mom hiking through fields of frailejónes in the páramo.

Accessing the páramo requires a steep uphill trek of one or two days, depending on your route. The weather is volatile and typically cold and windy at the top, even in July. Taking a guide is highly recommended, so we decided to go on a three day trek with PáramoTrek. The awesome thing about PáramoTrek is that they not only offer guided multi-day treks, they have developed relationships with remote farmers who house and feed their trekkers each night. No schlepping of tents or meals, plus the double bonus of an honest cultural experience. PáramoTrek works with these families to teach them ecotourism, as their traditional habit of raising animals is causing some harm to the fragile ecosystems within the preserve (which wasn’t a national park when they first got there).

A horse loaded with water heads up into the mountains.

Our guide for the trip was Felipe, whose freckled face and huge grin made him immediately likable. A forest ranger and ultra marathon runner, he was quite obviously at home in remote environments. He did not speak much English, but we all got along just fine with a bit of charades and a lot of laughing.

Heading out of the valley toward the cloud forest

Bromeliads (airplants) and orchids growing wild in the cloud forest.

After 5 hours of walking mostly uphill, Felipe pointed to a small dot not too far off in the distance. It was Finca La Argentina, our home for the night. Because of the undulating terrain, however, it took us 2 more hours to get there. On arrival, we were greeted by a pack of dogs, a few pigs, cows, horses and a hot cup of aguapanela (sugar water). Aguapanela is the perfect thing for the cold, thin air of the higher altitudes. We drank it constantly over the three day trip, sacrificing tooth enamel to local culture and deliciousness.

That little dot at the end of the arrow is Finca La Argentina.

FincaLa Argentina with the rock called Morro Gacho in the distance. Our

first day we walked from the valley on the far side of that rock.

A pot of homemade cheese sits next to the stove. The kitchen is the

center of life at the farm. It is also the only heated room in the

house. There are benches placed around the stove where people can sit.

Even in July, the night was very cold. Day 2 took us to our highest point at 13,124 feet. The going was a little rough due to the high altitude, and we were breathing heavily and stopping often (except for Felipe, who actually runs that route during his ultra marathons). Cresting the hill and seeing the miles and miles of frailejónes was amazing. These Dr. Seuss-inspired plants are endangered due to habitat loss. It doesn’t help that they grow extremely slowly, and some of the tall ones are estimated at over a hundred years old.

Heading toward the páramo with the Paramillo del Quindio volcano in the background.

Frailejónes everywhere.

On the second night we stayed at Finca La Primavera, a remote farm with an unbeatable view. The altitude was high enough that we both got a little nauseous and had less appetite that one would expect after so much exercise. We slept under piles of wool blankets but still needed to wear all of our clothing plus hats and gloves. The altitude had an effect on our sleep too, and I woke up three or four times with my heart pounding and unable to catch my breath. Several deep inhalations remedied the problem, but it was a little disconcerting until I figured out what was happening.

Finca La Primavera

At dusk the fog cleared to reveal the Nevado del Tolima volcano and its glacier.

Sleeping attire.

The last day of the trek was spent going downhill. In one day we covered the entire distance of the previous two days. Going down hurts worse than going up. By the time we got back to the valley we were completely exhausted and I was pretty sure I was going to lose the nail on my pinky toe, which had been banging againstmy shoe all day. We were delighted to find a Willys Jeep (commonly used as taxis in Salento) waiting to take us out of the valley. The best thing about the Willys is the platform on the back that you can stand on while gripping the roof.

Felipe in the wind and fog.

Going down. And down. And down some more.

Riding with Felipe on the back of a Willys Jeep.

Jesus gearshift.

What better to do after days of physical exertion than hit a spa? The town of Santa Rosa de Cabal is gritty, industrial and much rougher than Salento. All that aside, what they really have going for them is the natural hot springs (termales) located just outside of town. The water is full of minerals and if it gets too hot you can walk a few yards to cool off in the 170ft waterfall pouring down from the cliff. It was exactly what our sore muscles needed.

Termales de Santa Rosa de Cabal.

One thing about Colombian food: don’t let people tell you it isn’t good. It isn’t really spicy, but it’s fresh and full of taste. After we returned from our trek, we finally tried Bandeja Paisa, which will net you a full days worth of calories in one meal. Although the dish varies slightly, one can typically expect a platter containing red beans, pork belly, white rice, fried egg, chicharon (fried pork belly), plantain, chorizo, arepa (corn flatbread), black pudding and avocado. We split one order and were completely stuffed. Another notabledining experience was mondongo, or tripe soup. I was reluctant to try it, but it turned out to be quite good. It’s usually made with diced beef stomach, lots of cilantro, rice and served with a plantain and spicy or sweet sauce on the side. There were some soft bumpy bits that got me, but all in all it was light and delicious.

From L to R: Bandeja Paisa, tiny bird’s eggs with vegetables, Mondongo (tripe soup) and Trucha (trout) with Coca Tea.

Guatapé was the last stop on our trip. Just 2 hours from Medellín, it is located on a reservoir that was created for a hydro-electric dam in the 1960’s. For a long time it was pretty much off-limits for Colombians and foreigners alike, as it was the vacation spot of choice for Pablo Escobar, the Medellín Cartel and the rival Cali Cartel. Now, it is a laid-back, colorful get-away that is safe for everyone.

El Peñon de Guatapé

One of the coolest things to do in Guatapé is climb El Peñon, “The Rock of Guatapé”. It’s a 66 million ton monster with a cement staircase stitched into its side. 659 steps will lead you to the top of the rock, with a total of 750 taking you to the top of the tower perched on the rock. The views are worth the climb. The rock is a volcanic plug, which occurs when magma hardens in the vent of a volcano and is exposed over time as the volcano exterior erodes or falls away.

View from the top of El Peñon de Guatapé.

Another unique Guatapé attraction is a visit to La Manuela, the vacation home of Pablo Escobar (it’s actually one of many). At the height of their power, Pablo and The Medellín Cartel were responsible for smuggling around 15 tons of cocaine per day, worth more than half a billion dollars, into the U.S. According to Escobar’s brother and accountant, they spent as much as $2500 a week on rubber bands to wrap their stacks of cash, and 10% of their earnings were written off yearly due to “spoilage” (rot, rats, water damage) from hiding it in the walls, floors etc of various properties. Despite campaigns of violence, bribery and corruption, Escobar is a polarizing figure in Colombia as he also gave generously to poor communities by bankrolling libraries, schools, homes and doctor’s bills without asking for a cent in return.

The bombed out summer home of Pablo Escobar.

La Manuela is a charred, crumbling skeleton tagged with the graffiti of trespassers. Now owned by the government, it was the location of a bombing and attempted capture from which Pablo escaped, allegedly by submarine. Still, you can see how carefully planned it once was: panoramic lake views in the bedroom, massive marble sinks, porthole windows and landscaping with plants from all over the world. In another accident of good timing, we found a group of British 20-somethings who had chartered a small fishing boat to take them to the private island onwhich La Manuela was built. Somewhat out of place but happy to have a ride, we wandered the ruins and hung out with the caretaker while they played paintball in wreckage. Yes, you can suit up and shoot each other where Pablo once entertained the famous and infamous. It was an odd and fascinating scene to behold, especially while sitting next to my mother.

Guatapé street with zócalos.

Guatapé town center.

The greatest part about Guatapé is the town center, which has many cobbled streets lined with colorful houses decorated with zócalos. Zócalos are a form of wall art found on the lower portion of the buildings. They depict everything from shapes to sheep to old men playing cards. Guatapé is a well preserved traditional Colombian town and is the perfect place to spend a few days wandering or boating. Colombia was a place I knew little about before I went there. It pleasantly surprised me on so many levels, and I couldn’t have asked fora better trip. Forget the reputation the country previously held; a lothas changed for the better since then.